The Story of Comme des Garçons’ Most Iconic Collections

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Jul 4, 2025 - 16:39
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The Story of Comme des Garçons’ Most Iconic Collections

In the world of high fashion, few brands have achieved the cult status and conceptual impact of Comme des Garçons. Founded in 1969 by Rei Kawakubo, the    Commes Des Garcon     Japanese fashion house has become synonymous with avant-garde innovation, anti-fashion aesthetics, and a relentless defiance of convention. Over the decades, Comme des Garçons has delivered collections that have both shocked and inspired, transforming the very language of fashion. This blog explores the story behind some of the brand’s most iconic collections and the legacy they continue to build.

The Birth of a Revolutionary Vision

Rei Kawakubo started Comme des Garçons in Tokyo with a vision that rejected mainstream ideals of beauty and fashion. The brand’s name, which translates to “like the boys” in French, already hinted at its gender-defying philosophy. In 1981, Comme des Garçons made its Paris debut, stunning the fashion elite with the now-infamous "Hiroshima Chic" collection. Characterized by black, asymmetrical garments and intentionally distressed fabrics, the collection was met with confusion and criticism—but it also established Kawakubo as a provocateur unafraid to challenge norms.

This debut collection would set the tone for Comme des Garçons’ future: one that was cerebral, uncompromising, and rooted in concept more than consumer appeal.

1997: The Lumps and Bumps Collection

Perhaps the most iconic and controversial of all Comme des Garçons’ collections is the Spring/Summer 1997 collection, often referred to as the “Lumps and Bumps” collection. Officially titled “Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body,” it featured padded dresses that distorted the human silhouette with bulbous shapes and strange protuberances.

Rather than conforming to the traditional ideals of proportion and elegance, Kawakubo challenged the very idea of what a body should look like. The collection was widely polarizing. Some critics dismissed it as grotesque, while others hailed it as revolutionary. Art institutions, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art, would later exhibit the collection, cementing its place in fashion history.

Kawakubo later explained that she was interested in the relationship between the body and the dress, rather than simply making clothes for it. This exploration of form and identity became a recurring theme throughout her work.

2005: Broken Bride

In the Fall/Winter 2005 collection, titled “Broken Bride,” Kawakubo once again pushed emotional and sartorial boundaries. The collection presented tattered and asymmetrical wedding dresses, some featuring veils, corsets, and ghostly lace. Models walked with solemn expressions, conveying a haunting story of love, loss, and transformation.

“Broken Bride” was notable not just for its melancholy aesthetic but for its storytelling power. Each look seemed to represent a different stage of emotional breakdown—like frozen moments of a personal tragedy. It was less about the garment itself and more about the emotion it evoked.

This collection affirmed Comme des Garçons’ reputation as a fashion house that viewed the runway as a space for conceptual exploration, not just commerce.

2012: The Two Dimensions Collection

In a world increasingly dominated by digital imagery and screens, Kawakubo responded with her Spring/Summer 2012 collection, commonly referred to as the “Two Dimensions” collection. This collection played with flatness and visual trickery, making the garments appear as though they were two-dimensional illustrations brought to life.

Using trompe l’oeil prints and stiff silhouettes, the clothes seemed to defy depth, mocking the viewer's expectations of texture and movement. In doing so, Kawakubo commented on the way fashion is consumed in the digital age—flattened, filtered, and often more impactful as an image than as a tactile object.

The Two Dimensions collection marked yet another moment in which Comme des Garçons was not just following trends but interpreting the societal zeitgeist in real time.

2017: Art of the In-Between

Rei Kawakubo’s impact was so profound that in 2017, the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York dedicated an entire exhibition to her work, titled Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between. This was only the second time a living designer received such an honor, the first being Yves Saint Laurent.

Coinciding with the exhibition, the Fall 2017 collection explored the idea of hybridity, with outfits that merged disparate elements into unified forms. Some pieces looked like sculptures rather than wearable clothing, while others fused historical references with futuristic materials.

It was a celebration of contradiction—one of Kawakubo’s most beloved themes. The collection, much like the exhibition, urged viewers to question where fashion ends and art begins.

The Eternal Influence of Comme des Garçons

Comme des Garçons’ influence stretches far beyond the runway. It has inspired generations of designers, from Martin Margiela to Yohji Yamamoto, and even influenced popular culture through its collaborations and diffusion lines. The brand’s PLAY line, with its signature heart logo, has become a staple in casual fashion. Meanwhile, its partnership with Nike and other major brands shows that avant-garde aesthetics can still find a place in the commercial world.

But perhaps the most important contribution Comme des Garçons has made is the freedom it has given to fashion. Kawakubo’s refusal to conform to trends or cater to consumer expectations has made her a beacon for creative independence. Her collections don’t just decorate the body—they challenge it, redefine it, and invite us to reconsider our own perceptions of beauty, identity, and style.

A Legacy of Defiance and Vision

Even as Rei Kawakubo grows older and takes a step back from daily operations, the DNA of Comme des Garçons remains rooted in bold experimentation. Whether she’s sending out armor-like silhouettes or minimalist abstractions, her work continues to shake the industry out of its complacency.

What sets Comme des Garçons apart isn’t just the aesthetic—it’s the philosophical depth behind every collection. Each season becomes a meditation on some aspect of Comme Des Garcons Hoodie     the human condition: isolation, transformation, resistance, or rebirth. In that way, Kawakubo is less a fashion designer and more a storyteller, using fabric instead of words.

Conclusion

The story of Comme des Garçons is not one of trendsetting but of trailblazing. From the haunting beauty of “Broken Bride” to the cerebral shock of “Lumps and Bumps,” Rei Kawakubo has crafted a legacy that challenges the fashion industry to think deeper, imagine further, and feel more.

These iconic collections are more than fashion statements—they are cultural moments that reshape how we see clothing and ourselves. In a world obsessed with conformity and perfection, Comme des Garçons reminds us of the power of imperfection, individuality, and the beauty of the unexpected.